The Power of Surfing: Healing Mind, Body, and Spirit

Why does surfing calm the mind, excite the soul and make us feel connected to something larger than ourselves? For many surfers, it’s the meditative rhythm of the sea, the thrill of riding waves and the sense of belonging to the natural world. Sitting on your board “out-back” bobbing up and down, waiting for the next set of waves, leaves a sense of calm and time for inward thinking. Watching the foam-topped peaks crash on the shore can evoke a deep connection to nature and humble grounding of our smallness in the world. And when you’re shooting down the face of a wave with the cold British spray splashing you in the face, it is the adrenaline rush, a feeling of feral joy, that you just want to repeat again and again. “Just one more wave!” is a phrase voiced by surfers an hour before they finally come ashore.

But the profound positive impact of surfing is not just felt by seasoned surfers and now, Olympians. Time and time again, people leave the ocean feeling happier. This has (likely) been true ever since the first people kneeled in their reed boats (cabillitos), stood in their canoes or stepped onto a plank of wood in the wave-riding ancient civilisations of Peru, Hawaii and Polynesia; the first communities of surfers date back to 1000 BC. Since then, surfing has become both a global sport and a favourite past-time, and its transformative power has been formalised into surf therapy. The first-known surf therapy non-profit, “Surfer’s Healing,” was founded by parents who discovered the calming effect surfing had on their son who had been diagnosed with autism. Fast forward to today, and the International Surf Therapy Organisation (ISTO) estimates there are 133 surf therapy organisations reaching almost 20,000 participants worldwide. This global surge highlights just how powerful and positive the effect of surfing can be for the mind and body.

In the UK alone, six surf therapy organisations, including the Wave Project and Surfwell, are helping individuals harness the benefits of the sea. Remarkably, the number of surf therapy organisations has accelerated over the last few years. According to ISTO data, from 2020 to now the number of organisations has quadrupled – evidence of the growing support and recognition of surfing as a tool for healing.

The Emerging Science of Surfing and Well-Being

Despite this growing movement, it’s only recently that researchers have begun studying the specific health outcomes associated with surfing and time spent near the sea. This research forms part of the broader study of “blue spaces,” defined as outdoor, natural or manmade water-based environments such as seas, lakes and rivers. Research into blue spaces has consistently linked proximity and frequences to visiting these environments with better self-reported health and happiness. Most of these studies have only been conducted in the last 10-15 years.

A 2024 study by the University of Bristol and The Wave, surveying 1,300 people, found a relationship between surfing frequency and positive physical health and mental wellbeing. While there isn’t yet definitive cause-and-effect evidence, the data shows that individuals who surf more frequently tend to self-report better mental health. Likewise, another research paper from the Blue Health Project, which surveyed 18,000 participants across 18 countries, found that coastal areas and rural rivers are associated with the best wellbeing outcomes compared to other blue spaces.

Specific studies on surf therapy programmes, like the Wave Project, as well as encompassing  literature reviews further demonstrate the positive effects of surfing as a therapeutic intervention. However, as interesting and promising as these findings are, more research – with emphasis on replicable studies – is needed to fully confirm the indisputable scientific evidence of surfing as a proven method for improving health outcomes for participants. This will offer surf therapy organisations the evidence needed to successfully seek funding to start, continue, or scale-up their activities to reach more people.

Thankfully, researchers, businesses and charities are already putting their bright and passionate minds together. On the 18^th of September, the Wave, in partnership with The University of Bristol, held the 2024 Blue Health Symposium, where inspirational academics, activists and non-profit owners spoke on the topic of blue health, inclusivity in blue spaces and surf and water-based therapies.

Safety, Accessibility and the Blue Space Experience

While surfing offers immense benefits, a key factor in enjoying these benefits is feeling safe in the water. A study published in 2023 found that our happiness and satisfaction when accessing blue spaces is closely connected to how safe we feel in and near these environments. The sea, with its constantly changing conditions, can shift from safe to dangerous in a matter of minutes. Wave size and power, currents and water quality can affect both the actual and perceived safety of surfers.

Yet, safety in surfing is often subjective – some are more comfortable than others with taking risks. One surfer might feel exhilarated riding a 10-foot wave into a barrel, while another might feel content and challenged just riding whitewater waves. Whereas for those unfamiliar with the sea or who cannot swim, the ocean can seem an intimidating, unwelcoming place. With this in mind, it is crucial for individuals, surf communities and organisations to help people of all levels feel safe, confident and prepared when they enter the water.

Groups like Surfers Against Sewage and the Good Law Project are taking important steps to keep our seas clean, ensuring water quality doesn’t make our swimmers and surfers sick or turn potential newbies away. Additionally, the first-of-its-kind adaptive Welsh surf school, Surfability, is fulfilling its mission of making surfing accessible for all, including for disabled and neurodivergent individuals.

Breaking Down Barriers to Blue Spaces

However, there are still many obstacles inhibiting potential new surfers, “kooks”, from catching their first wave – or surfing more regularly. To break down these barriers, there is a need for more facilities near urban areas similar to the Wave, reduced-costs for surf rentals and products, more mentors and communities to surf alongside, increased diversity in surfing and improved transport links to coastal surf spots.

It’s not just about access; keeping our blue spaces safe and clean will provide the biggest well-being benefits. Therefore, the surf community, researchers and environmental groups must continue to empower individuals with the skills, equipment and confidence that allows them to enjoy time in the sea.

A Call to Action

Everyone can do their part. Here are a couple of ideas:

• Creating more inclusive opportunities for people to take to surfing for the first time.
• Challenge your local council to make your beach more safer and more accessible. Surfability can support with providing a accessibility planning guide.
• Raise funding for surf therapy and adaptive organisation doing incredible work.
• Volunteer for surf organisations, whether you are a seasoned pro or passionate kook.
• Create a Blue Health Academic Working Group to bring together academics from UK and EU Higher Education Institutions to collaborate and coordinate on new research projects, creating more evidence of the health benefits of surf therapy and “blue health.”
• Advocate for cleaner oceans with Surfers Against Sewage.

Let’s work together to help more people enjoy the health benefits of the biggest “blue space” of them all, our ocean.